Visiting ‘Akaka Falls State Park in Hawaii

There are many beautiful waterfalls on the Big Island of Hawaii. Akaka Falls is definitely one of the prettiest. Falling an impressive 442 feet, it is a stream of silver and light surrounded by lush green vegetation. 

My husband and I visited the falls on our customary January trip immediately after landing in Hilo. It was midday when we arrived, and it was quite hot and humid. The parking lot was big enough for maybe 30 cars and was nearly full, a good indication that this is a popular destination among locals and tourists alike. There was a fee to visit, and some very nice volunteers explained how to pay for parking and pointed the way to the trail. 

The hike is a little less than a half-mile paved loop with many stairs that pass by some beautiful, lush green forest. I did some reading in the parking lot before we started explaining that many of the plants and vegetation you pass by are not native. Most of the flowering nonnative plants were introduced in the 1950s to create a lush tropical rainforest feel for visitors to experience as they looked onto the falls. Of course, laws are stricter now, and that would not happen today. 

You also get treated to views of an incredible Banyan Tree with arms outstretched and reaching to the floor. Once we reached the viewing platform, we were greeted by Akaka Falls in the distance, with wisps of cool spray occasionally misting us with the breeze. While my husband was snapping too many photos, I turned to the info sign at the viewing area and told him about the O’opu. 

The O’opu, a Special Creature Endemic to the Falls

The O’opu are tiny native goby fish that are endemic to the area. The eggs are laid at the top of Akaka Falls amongst the rocks and boulders. Once the egg hatches, the underdeveloped fish floats downstream into the open ocean and can live there for up to 6 months before they start to return to the stream. As juveniles, they use suction cups and pectoral fins to climb up the slick rocky waterfall surface back to the top of the falls. This is where they live their adult lives and lay eggs to continue the cycle. These tiny fish that measure only 5 inches in adulthood, travel 2.5 miles against the current to return to the base of the falls and climb 442 feet up. Impressive, I say. 

After our photos and facts, we continued on the trail to an overlook of Kahuna Falls. We enjoyed the water sounds for this one as the falls were behind more lush vegetation. We probably spent an hour here, but you could spend more or less when you visit. 

Mo’olelo of ‘Akaka Falls

The beauty of ‘Akaka Falls is also the subject of a Native Hawaiian Legend. 

The story of a Warrior Chief named ‘Akaka, loved by his young, beautiful wife and dog. They lived happily in the Honomu village near the falls.  While his wife and dog were loyal and faithful to  ‘Akaka … ‘Akaka was not. 

He kept two goddess mistresses, Lehua and Maile. When his wife left to visit family in Hilo, he secretly visited them. In one such instance, while visiting Lehua, his wife unexpectedly returned early. 

His wife started to search for him. As she neared Lehua’s hut, ‘Akaka ran across the gulch to Maile’s hut.  His wife continued to search and followed him from the smell of the grass he wore.

As she approached again, he darted with his dog toward his village through a shortcut. Feeling badly about his deception, he stumbles and falls into a pool at the bottom of the waterfall, where he is transformed into stone. His dog, torn between loyalty and fear of falling is transformed into a stone at the top of falls.  

‘Akaka’s wife witnessed everything… she frantically rushed towards them and called out his name. When she reached the cliff’s edge, her sorrow and cries transform her into a rock. ‘Akaka, his wife, and his dog will forever be together. 

His two lovers, Lehua and Maile, were beside themselves with grief.  They mourned and cried so hard for the loss of ‘Akaka that their tears turned into two small waterfalls along the gulch below ‘Akaka Falls. 

It’s said to this day, rain will fall if you touch the large rock at the top of the falls with a lehua branch or a string a maile lei around it, for Lehua and Maile always make poor ‘Akaka’s wife cry.