Where Liberty Found Its Voice: Visiting St. John’s Church in Richmond
If walls could talk, the ones at St. John’s Episcopal Church in Richmond would roar with the words that helped ignite the American Revolution. The historic church was founded in 1741. It’s the oldest church in the city, located in the oldest neighborhood, and sits on Church Hill, the highest point in Richmond.
It’s also the site where Founding Father Patrick Henry delivered his legendary “Give me liberty, or give me death!” speech on March 23, 1775.
A Revolutionary Moment
In May 1774, the Virginia House of Burgesses was dissolved by Virginia’s Royal Governor, Dunmore, due to its members’ growing support for colonial resistance against the British Crown.
No longer able to meet in the then Capitol of Williamsburg, the delegates moved to Richmond so they could continue meeting. St. John’s Episcopal Church was a natural choice for the setting, as it was the only building large enough to house all of the members.
The church was the setting for the Second Virginia Convention, where colonial leaders gathered in tense anticipation of war. Among them are names that echo in history to this day, such as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, George Mason, Richard Henry Lee, and more. It was here that Henry’s fiery address tipped the scales toward armed resistance against British rule.
A revolutionary moment, preserved for visitors to experience more than 250 years later.
Visiting St. John’s Episcopal Church in Richmond, Virginia
We visited St. John’s Episcopal Church on a hot and nearly unbearably humid day in the middle of summer. We’d spent the morning touring Patrick Henry’s nearby Scotchtown Plantation, where he lived when he delivered his famous speech.
We parked along the road by the church and then walked into the visitor center to check in for our tour. After getting situated, we walked outside with about ten other people to begin the tour.
The guide explained that he would assume Henry’s role once we entered the church, but he always liked to start by taking some time outside to share some information about the property.
George Wythe’s Grave
Our first stop was the grave of Founding Father and Signer of the Declaration of Independence George Wythe. My wife and I had both heard the name before, but we had, for the most part, limited knowledge of Wythe.
The tour guide, who was quite animated, explained that during colonial times, Wythe was more famous than some of the founding fathers who are revered today, but over time, his celebrity has faded. While not as well known today, he taught law and mentored men who went on to shape history, including President Thomas Jefferson, Supreme Court Chief Justice John Marshall, and Senator Henry Clay.
Wythe’s longtime home was in Williamsburg, but he moved to Richmond when the capital moved in 1780. You can tour his home in Colonial Williamsburg to this day.
The tour guide went on to explain that he was murdered by poison, which led to one of the first widely followed show trials in early American history.
The Cemetery and Graveyard
Next, we walked up the path to the front of the church, where our guide took a moment to discuss the grounds.
“Does anyone know the difference between a cemetery and a graveyard?” He asked. We did not, nor did anyone else. “A graveyard is attached to a church and usually reserved for church members, while a cemetery is typically a burial ground not affiliated with a church.” He explained. “Here at St. John’s Episcopal Church, we have both.”
The grounds were packed with more than 400 old tombs, some of which were weathered bare and unreadable. While there are 400 stones, more than 3,500 people are buried on the grounds, often double and triple stacked in most places. “Everywhere you go throughout the grounds, you are walking on dead people.” He said
Edgar Allan Poe’s Mother’s Grave
Edgar Allan Poe’s Mother, Eliza Arnold Poe, is buried on the grounds. The exact location of the grave is not known, but a memorial marks the general area. The memorial was placed there by the University of Virginia’s Raven Society more than 120 years after her death. Edgar Allan Poe attended UVA for a short period. For those looking to learn more about the famed author, the Poe Museum is a short drive from the church.
Entering the Church
Entering the church was a relief. While it’s a very old church, it does have modern air conditioning.
Everyone took a seat in the first two pews, while our guide pivoted to the church itself. The building, which is made of wood, is all original. The fact that it remains standing after nearly 300 years is impressive in itself. But consider this: this church had two wars, the Revolutionary War and the Civil War, fought on its doorstep, and it survived. That fact certainly added some perspective for us.
He explained that the church has grown in size four times since its founding. Still, the area where we are currently located was where George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Harrison, Richard Henry Lee, Peyton Randolph, and the other delegates at the conventions would have sat.
“If we were base enough to desire it, it is now too late to retire from the contest. There is no retreat but in submission and slavery! Our chains are forged! Their clanking may be heard on the plains of Boston! The war is inevitable and let it come! I repeat it, sir, let it come. It is in vain, sir, to extenuate the matter. Gentlemen may cry, Peace, Peace but there is no peace. The war is actually begun! The next gale that sweeps from the north will bring to our ears the clash of resounding arms! Our brethren are already in the field! Why stand we here idle? What is it that gentlemen wish? What would they have? Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, Almighty God! I know not what course others may take; but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!” – Patrick Henry
Patrick Henry’s Speech
The Second Convention at the church centered around whether Virginia should organize a militia. Patrick Henry’s speech was a rallying cry in support of this cause. The speech is believed to have lasted approximately 10 minutes. But the exact wording of the speech will never be known with certainty.
The speech was not published until 40 years after it was delivered and 18 years after Henry’s death. William Wirt, who is the longest-serving attorney general in U.S. history, occupied the role for the entirety of the Madison and Monroe Presidencies and made it his mission to piece together Henry’s speech through meticulous interviews of those who witnessed it.
Wirt’s 1817 biography, Sketches of the Life and Character of Patrick Henry, published the speech. While it is likely not 100 percent accurate, it is generally accepted by historians as being close to the actual verbatim.
John Marshall’s father, Thomas Marshall, told his son, who later became Chief Justice of the United States, that the speech was “one of the boldest, vehement, and animated pieces of eloquence that had ever been delivered.”
Edward Carrington, who would go on to become a Lieutenant Colonel in the Continental Army during the Revolutionary War, listened to the speech near a window of the church. He was so moved by it, he is said to have turned to his friends and said, “Boys, bury me here, in this very spot!” His wish was granted on October 28, 1810, when he was laid to rest outside of that very window.
Again, while every word may not be known, what is known is when Henry announced, “Forbid it, Almighty God! I know not what course others may take; but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!”
He theatrically concluded by plunging a whalebone paper cutter towards his chest in imitation of the Roman patriot Cato the Younger. That very paper cutter, as well as the bell from the church, is on view at the Virginia Museum of History & Culture.
After the speech, witness Edmund Randolph reported that the crowd sat in silence for several minutes. Then it erupted, half yelling TREASON! TREASON! TREASON! While others scream TO ARMS! TO ARM! TO ARMS! Ultimately, Virginia would vote to raise a militia.
The following month, “the shot heard around the world,” at the Battles of Lexington and Concord on April 19, 1775, the Revolutionary War began.
There is a small plaque where historians believe Henry sat during the convention. During his speech, he was walking around and animated.
My wife and I were very impressed by the tour! So much so that the next time we are in the area, we plan on attending a reenactment. If you are in Richmond, make time for a tour of St. John’s Episcopal Church; you will not regret it.
